Words by Lynn Mathuthu
In an attention-scarce economy, luxury fashion houses are locked in a hand-to-hand, colosseum-style melee, competing for the masses' attention. From viral celebrity collaborations to runway stunts which leave you questioning whether you were part of a 2007 YouTube flash mob sequence or a fashion show in Milan (I'm looking at you, Diesel), one brand seems to constantly cut through the noise, captivating audiences from the front row to the comfort of their bedrooms, season after season.
Discussion around what ‘Chanel’ is or isn't continues to plague the algorithm, with Karl Lagerfeld and Virginie Viard enthusiasts sharing commentary on where the future of the brand lies. Through all of this emerges one herculean figure, Matthieu Blazy. With only seven collections, he has transfixed the fashion industry, delivering collection after collection and moment after moment which just seem to work.
Today in Sydney, Chanel re-stages its Biarritz Cruise collection, originally shown in April, to a host of fashion elites, including Nicole Kidman (who joins us here, too), A$AP Rocky and Marion Cotillard.
Why is Chanel hosting the show in sunny Sydney, you ask? Well, contextually, it aligns with Biarritz. Both cities are known for their surfing culture and lively promenades. Sydney is also home to some of Chanel's most influential ambassadors. Margot Robbie, who recently featured alongside pop princess Kylie Minogue in the Chanel 25 bag campaign; Baz Luhrmann, who originally worked with Kidman in 2005 on the Chanel No. 5 commercial – which remains one of the highest-budget productions to date – all take centre stage to support the brand and, equally, provide more viral moments.
Walking the shows are a host of Australian models, namely First Nations models Latahlia Hickling (Githabul-Bundjalung woman) and Tatiana Perry (Gamulkbun and Kokatha woman), who both debuted at the SS26 collection in Paris. Other notable names include every model's favourite models, Julia Nobis, Josephen Akuei and Emma Balfour, all of whom have become Matthieu's Angels, repeatedly walking season after season.
The Resort collection itself is strong, featuring woven versions of the Chanel 2.55 flap bag adorned with shells, ear cuffs resembling molluscs and fish spun across knitwear. Having already seen the collection, it is a marvel to witness the phalangeal phenomenon, aka the ‘half shoe’, in person. It is even more impressive considering it was worn by Margaret Qualley to the premiere of her latest film.
Nonetheless, Sydney is abuzz. Chanel has brought its joy to our very shores and, on a global scale, this is one of the reasons Chanel just works. It understands how to cultivate genuine moments which inspire the masses and build a world that transcends the clothing itself. Which, ultimately, has enough merit to stand on its own two feet.